Margiela: The Hermès Years – Kinfolk

Posted by 2018 article


MoMu is displaying Belgian stylist Martin Margiela's Hermès collections from 1997 to 2003 for the first time. As well as this, the tribute exhibition also explores the relationship during these years between these collections and his own label, Maison Martin Margiela. Groundbreaking deconstruction and timeless luxury -the two worlds of designer Martin Margiela- are the starting point of the exhibition 'Margiela. The Hermès Years'.

When the Parisian house Hermès appointed Martin Margiela as its artistic director for the women's ready-to-wear collections in October 1997, the founder of Maison Martin Margiela had already been known for almost a decade as one of the most in uential avant-garde designers. His predilection for the deconstruction, recycling and recovery of materials was unheard of in the fashion world of that era. His conceptual approach to the presentation, sales and communication of his collections has changed the way we think about fashion and its underlying mechanisms, as well as our opinions on craftsmanship, commerce, authorship and innovation.

When Jean-Louis Dumas, then CEO of Hermès, approached Margiela for the label's ready-to-wear for women at the end of the 1990s, it was a daring choice to say the least, and not in line with the prevailing developments on the fashion scene, which preferred celebrity designers to breathe new life into traditional French fashion houses. The fact that Hermès, the crown jewel of Parisian luxury, chose Margiela -an iconoclast who longed to remain anonymous and up to then had never given a single interview- raised quite a few eyebrows. The fashion press greedily speculated whether Margiela would apply his deconstruction idiom to the iconic Hermès legacy.

DAM N ° is an independent publication with open-minded views on the interchangeable worlds of design, architecture and art. In making meaningful connections rather than dictating tastes, its approach to storytelling brings editorial content beyond hype or conventional academic debate. Unafraid to link the personal and the political, the economic and the emotional, the stylistic and the social, DAMN° is ultimately about discoveries that aim to provoke a reaction…whether it be a thought or a smile.

MoMu is displaying Belgian stylist Martin Margiela's Hermès collections from 1997 to 2003 for the first time. As well as this, the tribute exhibition also explores the relationship during these years between these collections and his own label, Maison Martin Margiela. Groundbreaking deconstruction and timeless luxury -the two worlds of designer Martin Margiela- are the starting point of the exhibition 'Margiela. The Hermès Years'.

When the Parisian house Hermès appointed Martin Margiela as its artistic director for the women's ready-to-wear collections in October 1997, the founder of Maison Martin Margiela had already been known for almost a decade as one of the most in uential avant-garde designers. His predilection for the deconstruction, recycling and recovery of materials was unheard of in the fashion world of that era. His conceptual approach to the presentation, sales and communication of his collections has changed the way we think about fashion and its underlying mechanisms, as well as our opinions on craftsmanship, commerce, authorship and innovation.

When Jean-Louis Dumas, then CEO of Hermès, approached Margiela for the label's ready-to-wear for women at the end of the 1990s, it was a daring choice to say the least, and not in line with the prevailing developments on the fashion scene, which preferred celebrity designers to breathe new life into traditional French fashion houses. The fact that Hermès, the crown jewel of Parisian luxury, chose Margiela -an iconoclast who longed to remain anonymous and up to then had never given a single interview- raised quite a few eyebrows. The fashion press greedily speculated whether Margiela would apply his deconstruction idiom to the iconic Hermès legacy.

MoMu is displaying Belgian stylist Martin Margiela's Hermès collections from 1997 to 2003 for the first time. As well as this, the tribute exhibition also explores the relationship during these years between these collections and his own label, Maison Martin Margiela. Groundbreaking deconstruction and timeless luxury -the two worlds of designer Martin Margiela- are the starting point of the exhibition 'Margiela. The Hermès Years'.

When the Parisian house Hermès appointed Martin Margiela as its artistic director for the women's ready-to-wear collections in October 1997, the founder of Maison Martin Margiela had already been known for almost a decade as one of the most in uential avant-garde designers. His predilection for the deconstruction, recycling and recovery of materials was unheard of in the fashion world of that era. His conceptual approach to the presentation, sales and communication of his collections has changed the way we think about fashion and its underlying mechanisms, as well as our opinions on craftsmanship, commerce, authorship and innovation.

When Jean-Louis Dumas, then CEO of Hermès, approached Margiela for the label's ready-to-wear for women at the end of the 1990s, it was a daring choice to say the least, and not in line with the prevailing developments on the fashion scene, which preferred celebrity designers to breathe new life into traditional French fashion houses. The fact that Hermès, the crown jewel of Parisian luxury, chose Margiela -an iconoclast who longed to remain anonymous and up to then had never given a single interview- raised quite a few eyebrows. The fashion press greedily speculated whether Margiela would apply his deconstruction idiom to the iconic Hermès legacy.

DAM N ° is an independent publication with open-minded views on the interchangeable worlds of design, architecture and art. In making meaningful connections rather than dictating tastes, its approach to storytelling brings editorial content beyond hype or conventional academic debate. Unafraid to link the personal and the political, the economic and the emotional, the stylistic and the social, DAMN° is ultimately about discoveries that aim to provoke a reaction…whether it be a thought or a smile.

From March 31 st to August 27 th , 2017 the Momu in Antwerp will showcase the collections that Martin Margiela , one of the most iconoclastic fashion designers, created between 1997 and 2003 for the august Parisian fashion house, Hermès .

Instead, Margiela remained behind the scenes and reached fame working by subtraction – through his image, as well as his designs. At first, everyone wondered whether he was the right choice, but then came to the realization that the breath of fresh air he had brought with him to the leather goods brand – calling it in simple terms – was the most unique on the international scene. His sober, monochrome palettes of color diverged from the usual approach taken by Hermès and, assisted by the great craftsmanship skill of the brand, Margiela was able to create something that did not at all exist until then: a comfortable yet rigorous luxury.

His own creations, and also those for Hermès, are still such an influence today that,  in the 2016/2017 season, he is spoken of as the “true star” and inspiration for many designers of the moment.



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Margiela The Hermes Years at MoMu - StyleZeitgeist

Posted by 2018 article

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